Showing posts with label The Troubles of Ireland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Troubles of Ireland. Show all posts

Monday, August 25, 2014

Belfast and Its Famous Ship


Most American’s, when they think of Belfast, likely think of “The Troubles” of Ireland that took place in the 1960’s and ‘70’s. I have much to say on that subject, as I’ve been pleasantly steeped in the history, and an eager student for the past few days. (That will be my a future blog post, so stay tuned, it’s a fascinating subject.)

But today I am anxious to share something with you that I was, ashamedly, ignorant of until I met Daniel and Peter, who live in the City of Belfast.

Thanks to James Cameron, we all have a somewhat truthful knowledge, of the ill-fated ship, Titanic. What you may not know . . . in fact, what I’m most certain most of you don’t know, is that the Titanic was built in Belfast, Northern Ireland.

I’ve found the city of Belfast to be as multi-layered as an onion, and this was just one more revelation that delighted me. I am going to attempt to share with you now what I learned as I walked the shipyard where the Titanic was built, and where passengers boarded, but there is no way I can translate the absolute beauty of the area and how the people of Belfast have brought this story to life. They have, in essence, managed to resurrect the ship so that you feel as though you have stood in the bowels and walked the deck.

The first notable landmarks associated with the Titanic are two giant yellow cranes that sit in the harbor of Belfast. These cranes are actually visible from miles away, they are just THAT BIG. The cranes held the Titanic as it was being built in 1909-1911. 

The Titanic launched out of Belfast Lough on May 31, 1911.  Interestingly, however, the ship was not yet “fitted out”, meaning there were no guest accommodations, furniture and such. It would take 3,000 men  another 10 months before the ship was ready to receive passengers.

Just a few hundred yards away from the cranes, sit the Titanic museum. But this isn’t your typical museum. It is a tribute.





The front of the building is designed as an exact replica of the hull of the Titanic.

The most fascinating thing, however, was the layout of the ship. They have erected steel posts that mark the length of the Titanic and show the divisions of the ship, so you can actually stand there and feel as though you are in the ship. The ground has an outline around these steel beams that show the scope of the ship. It’s fascinating to stand there and realize that this was an absolutely massive ship.

The point you see on the ground would illustrate the very front point of the Titanic. Looking back, the steel beams outline the proportions and size of the ship. 






















On a glass wall nearby are the name of the 1500+ people who lost their lives in association with the ship, not just in the sinking, but during the building as well.
The Titanic was captained by Edward Smith, whose name is here on the wall with the names of all the lost. The story goes he went down with the ship, and in the water, swam to a lifeboat but turned away when he saw it was overcrowded.  In all, thee were 898 total crew members: Chefs, bakers, butchers, scullions, mailroom staff, barbers, engineers, fireman, stokers, trimmers stewards, pursers, waiters and other uniformed and ununiformed on both upper and lower decks.  Seventy-six percent of the crew were lost at sea.

Peter and Daniel explained that there were deaths that occured in the building of the ship, and many of these were questioned due to the strife between Catholics and Protestants. Did he fall? Was he pushed? We may never know. We do know that during the launching of the Titanic, shipyard worker James Dobbin was hit by fallen timbers and killed. Working in the shipyard was low pay, dangerous and physically demanding. Accidents, such as falling into the river and being crushed, was common. People worked up to 68 hours a week.



















The headquarters of the White Star Line, where Bruce Ismay and others designed the Titanic. As chairman of the White Star Line, Ismay was in the odd position of being a passenger on board a ship he owned. It was Ismay's influence that caused Captain Smith to accelerate through the icefield rather than slow down or stop for the night. After the disaster, Ismay was savaged by both American and British press for deserting the ship while women and children were still on board. He denied that was the case, stating he went into the water then climbed into a lifeboat nearby.

















Thursday, August 21, 2014

Daniel and Peter

Everything happens for a reason.

Last year I twisted my ankle on the first day I was in Galway, Ireland. I was scheduled to climb Croag Patrick (see pic below) the next morning, but when I put my foot down to stand up, I knew my plans would have to change. I would not be climbing mountains any time soon.

Big disapointment, yes. End of the world? No. I was in Ireland, and there are NO bad days in Ireland, twisted ankle or not.

So I adjusted my plans and spent the day hobbling about the streets of Galway, taking a ferry out to the Aran Islands, and taking pictures of the sheep who so graciously give up their coats to make the beautiful Aran sweaters everyone loves. I still ended up climbing up a few hills and over the rocky Burren....even strolled through open farmland.

Now back to my opening statement - everything happens for a reason.

That night I sought out a pub that was said to have the best Irish music in town. I got there early and found a great spot at the bar, right below the suspended stage. My toes were itching to tap, I didn't want to miss one minute of Irish culture, and local pubs are one of the best places to be doused. As I was waiting to be noticed by the barmaid, an arm shot out next to me to collect two beers that were sitting on the bar. I must have made a face (I had been sitting there waiting for quite some time) and suddenly I heard the voice next to me (in a sweet Irish lilt) "Oh apologies...did I jump ahead of you?"

I turned and found myself looking at the smiling face of an Irishman. Adorable. That was my first thought. This guy is absolutely adorable. Young, fresh and with manners. And he was obviously concerned that I hadn't been waited on, so he said "No worries...I'll take care of that straight away."...and he did.

That was my first introduction to Daniel and Peter, two young Irishmen from Belfast, who were on holiday in Galway. They invited me to join them at their table and the rest is history. We spent the next few days tooling around the streets of Galway, enjoying the people watching and having an overall great time. Through their colorful stories, I learned much about the culture of Northern Ireland, an area of I really had very little knowledge of, apart from the "Troubles" of the 60's and 70's. 

That was a year ago, and since then, through the age of modern social media, we've become fast friends. Which is why, when they invited me to visit their beautiful country (Northern Ireland is still considered Ireland, but is a part of the United Kingdom) - I enthusiastically agreed. 

So today I journey to Ireland, and will land in Dublin, where they will "collect" me, and we will drive back up to Belfast. In looking at the map of Ireland, this should be a beautiful drive. And a wonderful chance for us to catch up on a year of activity in all of our lives. Once in Belfast, we will spend the next few days exploring this beautiful area. In Daniel's words - 

". . . we will visit Dunluce castle and take a Bushmills whiskey tour as they are in the same area. The Titanic museum perhaps? It's 10 minutes away as it's the city centre. You might like to tour the jail used during the troubles. Crumlin road Gaol it's called. Some hikes I thought you might like are Cave HIll or the Mourne Mountains in Co. Down. Giant's Causeway and Cerrick A Rede rope bridge for sure. And of course a night out with live Irish music in Belfast. ...."

I will also have the absolute honor to visit Daniel's parents on their farm in Co. Sligo, which is in the Republic of Ireland. According to Daniel, his father is quite the historian on the troubles of Ireland. 

I am sure there is nothing better than seeing Ireland through Irish eyes.

My journey will then take me, finally, to the mountain I was going to climb last year. I'll bus on my own to Co. Mayo where I will spend a few days, and it's there I will hopefully, finally check this mountain climb off my bucket list. 

From there I will head back to Dublin, where I will get to spend a few days with my dear friend Nancy, her husband Finbarr, and their son Tadhg. I've not seen them in a few years so I'm really looking forward to that reunion. Nancy and I've been known to hit a few pubs together and I doubt this trip will be any exception.

So yes, things happen for a reason. If I had not twisted my ankle that first day in Ireland, I would never have met Daniel and Peter. So, as they say in Ireland..."And there you go, Bob's your uncle." (meaning, there you have it.)

I'll be blogging along the way over the next week or so, and I'll hope you join me. I'll do my best to take you right along on the journey through words and pictures.

Slainte! 
Giant's Causeway

Cerrick-a-rede rope bridge

Croag Patrick
Peter and Daniel