The Lament of Culloden

As fields go, it's nondescript. Other than having an amazing view of snow capped mountains and Moray Firth, Culloden Moor is pretty stark and bleak. Grass grows and haphazard angles, kinda like a really bad haircut. The ground is thick with briars and chunky patches of uneven dirt. Not easy trodding this field.

We arrived en mass on a bus from Culloden House. We were a colorful lot...plaids and tartans of every color imaginable, kilts, hose, flashes, swords, dirks, bonnets, waist coats and stoles. Lighting from the coach we looked, I'm sure, like we belonged on a movie set. Yet when we stepped down from the bus the sight was like none I've ever seen. 

I felt just like I landed in a scene out of Rob Roy. 



I was escorted by my Scottish friends from the coach, where we slowly made our way past the modern day visitor center to the small pathways leading to the center of Culloden Moor for the Annual Commemoration of Culloden.  We were surrounded by hundreds of people carrying flags of various sorts. As I listened, it was pointed out to me who the groups were..Clan Fraser, Na Fir Dilias, Clan McCloud, Clan Cameron, and of course, A Circle of Gentlemen.  

Looking up I spotted flags rising high against the blue sky. The flags were either red or blue and scattered over the field- I was told later that the red flags represented the British position on the day of battle in 1746, and the blue flags represented the Scottish clans and their positions. I'm no military strategist but even I could see the challenge of the positions of the Scottish clans. 





 

The Well of the Dead

"Many people think Culloden was about the British and the Scots. It wasn't you know"...Alasdair spoke quietly as we walked, explaining to this sassanach what wasn't quite obvious, given the flags. "It was a civil war, it was also Scot against Scot." 

The accounts of the battle of Culloden are, like any battle, compelling and complex, and open to some interpretation as the years pass. Yes it was Scottish lowlanders against the Highlanders. Yes it was the British against the Jacobites. Yes it was Bonnie Prince Charlie against the Duke of Cumberland. It was all of that. But it was more. It was the last decisive, full scale battle fought on British soil and the last battle of the Jacobites. A little known fact by most sassanach's is that on that day the Jacobites were also joined by men from France, Ireland and yes, England. It was a battle of ideals and passions and beliefs...as all battles are. 

The actual battle lasted only an hour. The results of Culloden, though, produced waves and waves of consequenses that would surpass geography and culture and even time, as was evident on this day. As a result of this battle clans would be dismantled. Tartans outlawed. Families banned from their land. Families divided. And laments held over 200 years later. 

It is said we study history so as not to repeat it. So as not to make the same mistakes. All of the Scots standing on this field this day are too keenly aware of not just what is behind them here, but what is before them as well. The battle for independence from England has not stalled. It has just been moved from the soggy moor to the political halls. Scots will have a choice to vote whether to join the United States and Ireland as sovereign nations in the year 2014. So the battle continues.

Alasdair was right. It remains a civil war of sorts - it is still Scot against Scot. The people are still divided. My quite conversations later back at Culloden house is a testiment to that. Not all attendees to this celebratory day are in favor of full independence. They are still empassioned patriots and love their country, they are just not convinced it is the best thing for Scotland. 

Well, you have until 2014 to decide.

In the meantime, there is much to be learned from that sad, sorry day in April of 1746.  

I asked Alasdair to bring me back to Culloden moor the next day. It was a grey, cold day with only a few people scattered about. As we walked the paths of the moor we talked about that battle. 

"If I understand what happened, Culloden's tragedy and the loss of over 1,200 clansman that day and the subsequent deaths by "The Butcher" rests also at the feet of a very young Charles Stuart, who listened to bad advice to continue with the battle, even knowing the odds were against them."

"True"

"Explain to me, then, why Scotsmen today hold him in such high esteem when in actuality he failed them?" I thought it a fair question, and he didn't seem offended or surprised. 

"Well, he did take bad advice. Highlanders fight better in the hills"...Alasdair pointed to the surrounding hills..."he was advised by Lord George Murray to wait and take the battle to the hills. But he didn't listen to this, he instead listened to other advisors."

Our conversation continued - about the Prince, his eventual flight out of Scotland to France, military strategy and the passion for independence. I was the student that day - and was lucky enough to be standing on the battlefield with an empassioned Scottish patriot and scholar of history.


Prince Charles Edwart Stuart "Bonnie Prince Charlie"

  

One cannot stand on a battlefield and remain unchanged. I learned this when I stood at Gettysburg last summer. And though not a Scot, I felt it when I stood on Culloden Moor. I've a small slice of that cold air and bitter wind in my blood now. I've visions of faces and stones and fields. I've a soft spot for a young Prince and a love for the people of Scotland who continue the battle to this day. 

I'm back home now. But I can close my eyes and still see it. Yes, I really was at Culloden. I really stood on that sacred ground. And I've mud on my boots as proof.

Thus Culloden....

My journey to Culloden Muir started several years ago when I stumbled upon a series of books written by Diana Gabaldon called "The Outlander Series." I was fascinated by Jamie and Claire Frasier and lapped up  the historic accountings of their struggles to survive as Jacobites in Scotland. Actually, when I began reading this series I had absolutely no earthly idea what a Jacobite was.  The books are absolutely dripping with historic facts about Scottish and American history, and if you are paying attention and do a bit of exploring beyond the series, you become keenly aware of why North Carolina has the strong Scottish roots that it has.

If you've read any of my blog postings at all (especially the earlier ones where I explain my fascination with Celtic culture and my Celtic heritage) then you know that my journey of celtic discovery started as a child when I was curiously fascinated by my odd relatives. Through the years, with the help of my cousin Mike, we were able to finally able to find our several-times-removed grandfather John Murphy, who crossed to America from Ireland at the tender and stupid age of 26 long before the famine in 1807. Uncovering this young lad as the instigator of my life in America and my heritage was pivitol and sparked the curiosity for all things Celtic. 

Thus the Outlander Series, which taught me about Scottish history. Thus Culloden.

The Invitation....

It was about a year ago that I stumbled upon a group on Facebook called "The Circle of Gentlemen." I was  voyeuring through their photos when I happened to "like" (fb lingo) one of them. I was very shortly contacted by one of the Circle, who asked to "friend" me. (fb lingo for friends who aren't really real friends...sad really..but that's another post.) So Matthew Donnachie and I became friends and from there it snowballed. Scottish gentlemen and Jacobites started coming out of the woodwork - it was fun and entertaining and educational all at once. They are, after all, an educated, witty, charming and raucous lot. 



Matthew Donnachie

They are also passionate.

Their passion centers - as best I can tell - around two things. First, ensuring that Scottish history is never forgotten. Secondly, they are very passionate about the continued struggle to gain independence from England. I see both of these as the catalyst and motivational center of everything they do. 

One of those historic moments that should never be forgotten is the Battle of Culloden. This battle took place on Culloden Muir on April 16, 1746, between the army of the Hanoverian British government, led by the Duke of Cumberland, and the Scottish Jacobite forces of Charles Stuart, or as you may know him, Bonnie Prince Charlie. I encourage you to look this battle up - the bottom line result that is absolutely heartbreaking and tragic is that the thousands of Scottish clansmen who fought that day to restore Bonnie Prince Charlie to the throne, lost their lives in one of the bloodiest battles ever fought in Scotland. The fields of Culloden are commemorated to this day for this battle. And it is the Annual Lament of Culloden that I will be attending in just a few days time, at the invitation of The Circle of Gentlemen. 

I have a very tender heart where history is concerned. I can run over squirrels and barely look back (sorry)...but put me in the middle of an emotional historical moment and I'm a sap. Go figure. 

So standing on this sacred land is going to be moving, I just know it. Because as I stand there my thoughts will be of all of the men who fought so hard for something they wanted so badly and still to this day have not achieved. 

Everything you ever wanted to know about St. Patricks Day but were afraid to ask an Irishman for fear of getting punched

Every writer needs a muse. Someone or something that inspires.



Na Fianna in Kilkenny

So I find myself sitting here at 0-dark-thirty in the morning surrounded by the doo-dads and what-nots from my recent trips to Ireland, listening to the sweet Irish lads of Na Fianna and their ever-so-Irish tunes, seeking inspiration to come up with something clever and fun to share with you that has not already been said to death about the celebrated day of St. Patrick – and I’ve got to be about it quickly while you can still read it sober so here goes.

First things First –regardless of your nationality or heritage – a very Happy St. Patrick’s Day to you – or as it’s said in Irish Gaelic - Lá Fhéile Pádraig. The one day of the year when you can get away with public displays of drunkenness and wearing of anything green and baudy, including shirts that suggest you swap spit with a total stranger all because you’re Irish.  

Which, by the way, one thing I can promise you – if someone is wearing a “Kiss me I’m Irish” button,shirt, hat…etc…they ARE NOT Irish. All Irish folk know this to be true. REAL Irish people are most likely wearing a shirt that says "Try and kiss me and I'll punch ya."

Let’s get the mundane (but necessary) facts about St. Patrick’s Day out of the way first, then we’ll get to the fun, totally useless blarney

• St. Patrick really did exist. He was not Irish, however, but British (gasp!). He was born in AD 387
• When he was 16 years old, our boy Patrick was kidnapped and taken to Ireland as a slave. He musta liked it because when he was freed years later, he returned to Ireland to spread Christianity. Awwww…good on ya lad.(That's Scottish for "way to go")
• St. Patrick’s Day, as a result of Patrick’s efforts on behalf of Christianity, is now celebrated as a religious holiday in Ireland.
• As a result of his saving the Irish from themselves, Patrick became Saint Patrick, a celebrated patron Saint of Ireland.
• More often than not, however, St. Patrick’s Day celebrated as a cultural holiday around the rest of the world. (Translation= a reason to drink to oblivion)
• In the United States, over 450 churches are named after our celebrated patron Saint.
• In 1903 Saint Patrick’s Day became the official public holiday in Ireland.
• The shortest Saint Patrick’s day parade in the world is held in Dripsey, Cork. The parade is just 100 yards and travels between the village’s two pubs.Go figure.
• The Shamrock is said to have been what St. Patrick used to illustrate the Holy Trinity to the Irish. Cheap prop – smart fella our Patrick.

Now the fun stuff…..Interesting and little unknown facts you can impress your friends with if you can remember them in your inebriated state:

The Chicago River on St. Patrick's Day

• In Chicago they turn the Chicago river totally green with 40 lbs of green dye. It’s true, I’ve seen it with me own eyes. And it’s emerald. Seriously.
• Over 100,000 people line the riverbank to watch this happen. Then they all jump in. (I totally made that last part up. But it would be fun, aye?)
• In the US of A, 83% of people wear green on St. Patrick’s Day
• Over 31% attend a party
• 25% decorate their home and/or office
• Between 1820-1930 over 4.5 million people emigrated from Ireland to the United States.
• Today 37 million US residents claim Irish ancestry.  (This is more than 7 times the current population of Ireland)
• So how many Irishman does it take to screw in a light bulb? 21. One to hold the light bulb and 20 to drink till the room spins. (Just seeing if you were paying attention)
• Before the invention of the thermometer, beer brewers in Ireland used to check the temperature by dipping their thumb, to find whether appropriate for adding yeast. Too hot, the yeast would die. This is where we get the phrase, “The rule of thumb.” This has nothing whatsoever to do with St. Patrick’s Day, but I thought it was fascinating.
• Contrary to popular belief, kissing the Blarney Stone does not gift you with the gift of gab (blarney). You've either got it or you ain't. Kissing the blarney stone only gets you made fun of by Irish locals and germs left by the 2 million people who kissed it before you. Ewww.

As the one national holiday that is celebrated in more countries around the world than any other, St. Patrick’s Day is the day when everyone wants to be Irish or claims to have the green blood of Eire (Ireland) running through their veins. Well go ahead, we won’t hold it against ya. Just don’t embarrass us whilst claiming to be us.

One of the largest St. Patrick's Day parades is held in Chicago

Slainte and Happy Saint Patrick’s Day!

In Honour of Arthur

If you really want a legacy that lasts…put your name on a bottle and sell it to about 10 million people a day.

Tomorrow (Thursday, September 22) at exactly 8:59pm EST (where I live) Guinness fans from around the world are going to raise a glass of Guinness (in unison, mind you) to toast Mr. Arthur Guinness…...founder of the aforementioned brew.



Arthur Guinness

 As if Guinness fans needed a reason to tip a pint.

I’ve no idea how many Guinness fans will be participating in this event, but if cyber chatter is any indication, you may feel the world beneath your feet shift just a tad as all the glasses are lifted at once.

I thought, in honor of this auspicious and world-tipping occasion, I would talk a bit about Guinness.

*Disclaimer: I am not a beer drinker.

*Follow up Disclaimer: However, I love Guinness. Odd, I know. I've been told a million times.

My current love affair with Guinness (the drink, not Arthur or any of his kin) started with my recent trip to Ireland. Everyone kept saying that Guinness tastes different in Ireland (where it originated) so of course I set myself on a path of discovery. I started drinking Guinness at our local pub…at first with my fingers pinching my nose, then graduating to making “eeewww” faces…and finally drinking so easily I forgot to hesitate the glass at my mouth.

So does Guinness taste different in Ireland? I’ll talk about that in a minute. In the meantime, I went on a quest for useless facts about Guinness in honor of Arthur’s day tomorrow. So here is everything and more than you ever wanted to know about Guinness:

• Arthur Guinness was born over in Celbridge, County Kildare,Ireland in 1725.
• Look closely. Guinness beer is not actually black but rather dark ruby red because of the way the ingredients are prepared. Some malted barley is roasted, in a similar way to coffee beans, which is what gives Guinness its distinctive color.
• In the pub or bar the perfect pint of Guinness Draught is served using their famous 'two-part' pour. First, start with a clean, dry glass. Pour the GUINNESS® Draught into a glass tilted at 45 degrees, until it is three-quarters full. Allow the surge to settle before filling the glass completely to the top. Your perfect pint, complete with its creamy white head, is then ready to drink. 

*Note – they are seriously serious about this pouring system. Pouring contests are held all over the world…and competitors practice year round to get the nod of approval from the Guinness folks. Our local pub owner, Dale competes each year. He does pretty well...he says the secret is to drink about 8 pints prior to the competition.

• Water used in the brewing process comes from the Wicklow mountains, a little way to the south of Dublin, where the Guinness factory stands. (not in the river Liffy as most people tend to think) And speaking of that factory….
• In 1759 Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000-year lease on an unused brewery at St. James’s Gate, Dublin. It costs him an initial £100 (about $147 US dollars) with an annual rent of £45 (about $66 US dollars) - this includes crucial water rights. The brewery covers four acres and consists of a copper, a kieve, a mill, two malthouses, stabling for 12 horses and a loft to hold 200 tons of hay. 



St. James Gate Brewery, Dublin



The famous 9,000 year least on the Brewery



• In 1775 a Dublin Corporation committee & sheriff were sent to cut off and fill in the channel from which the Brewery draws its water. Arthur Guinness is forced to brandish a pickaxe to protect his supply. The dispute is finally settled in 1784 when water rights are granted for 8,975 years.



The pick axe Mr. Guinness used MAY have looked like this one

•  Over 10 million glasses of Guinness stout are enjoyed every single day around the world, and 1,883,200,000 pints are sold every year - that's 1.8 billion, to put it another way. (kudos here to Jerry and Andrew for making this possible)
• In 1840 Guinness finally made it to the United States by way of NY. Just in time for the 2 million thirsty Irish emigrants that would follow a few years later
• By 1870 10% of Guinness sales are overseas…yes, now I see a connection to the last point.
• Skipping ahead a few years, in 1939 Guinness sent all British troops in the British Expeditionary Force in France a bottle of GUINNESS “ stout, beer, or draught to enjoy with their Christmas dinner.”
• Skip ahead again to 1954….The first "Bottle Drop" promotion. 50,000 numbered and sealed bottles are dropped overboard from ships in various oceans of the world. Finders send the enclosed slip back to Guinness Exports to receive a reply and a memento. Bottles are returned from locations across the world, including Liverpool Docks, the Bahamas, Tahiti, the Azores and Mexico.

Tomorrow night’s event is going to be a moment to remember. Like a New Year's celebration except in a pub with strangers and no Dick Clark. But we will have a countdown. 

If you aren’t able to roll on down to your local pub, no worries. Facebook actually has a page that will take you to a LIVE video stream in Dublin. So you’ve no excuse.

Whether you are Irish or just Irish at heart, or just a lush looking for any excuse to drink, we hope you will all join in the revelry. As we say in Ireland, Cead Mile Failte - or 100,000 welcomes.

Oh..and in case you were curious, I must say that to my unseasoned palatte that yes, Guinness did taste better in Ireland. Creamier. 

Slainte!!